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Step By Step For The High Performance Face
STEP BY STEP
FOR THE HIGH PERFORMANCE FACE
To achieve a High Performance Face use products listed below. (APA Boutique proudly carries all MOde Dion Products)
Heavenly Brown (#338), Stage Red Cheek, White Eye Pencil, Sienna Lip Liner, #2 Stage Red Lipstick (Senior), Rhubarb Lipstick (Junior), and Gold Nugget Lipstick Highlighter.
From washed out to melt down, stage lights can do a number on your make-up. When performing on stage many dancers over compensate and end up with way too much make-up. From a distance you don’t want your eyes so drawn on with black liner that they look like two little black holes. Cheek color applied like bright red balls on the apples of the cheeks and lipstick so bright you’re all lips is not a polished professional look either. Just because you’re wearing stronger make-up doesn’t mean you forget all the make-up rules to accent your features. Here’s how to have flawless professional stage make-up that doesn’t fight with your own natural beauty.
To begin your make-up masterpiece, pull hair back away from your face so your bone structure and features can be easily seen. Get ready now to paint your work of art.
The eyes have it. Whenever you apply make-up, remember the importance of balance. The face must have balance between the eyes and lips. These two features are the most important on stage as the face washes out so much under the lights. The eyes are exaggerated with dark eye shadow so watch out for that under eye mess from shadow fall out. To make painting the eyes easier some make-up artists like to define the brows first before applying eye shadow so there’s a nice frame to the eye. This is your choice to see if it helps. Now let’s begin!
After proper skin care using oil-free moisturizer to prevent shine from perspiration, prepare eyelids if needed to even redness or discoloration, foundation, or concealer. Make sure to apply this across the entire lid next to the bridge of the nose and out passed the end of the eyebrows lightly.
Always powder eyelid with oil-free face powder to create a dry canvas for shadow to go on smoothly. TIP: when applying anything to the lids it’s important to lift your chin up and lean in close to the mirror. This way you have a full lid to work on and can see what you are doing clearly.
With a black, grey, or brown shadow, contour the outer half of the eyelid blending up just above the eye crease. TIP: to find where your dark shadow should end at the outer edge of your eye, use the eyebrow technique. Hold a pencil pointing up at the base of the nostril and end it at the end of the eye.
Define crease with a medium brown shadow in a peachy (warm) undertone or a pinky (cool) undertone. For a more neutral look use a medium brown beige (warm) or a gray brown (cool) color. Apply this across the entire crease stopping just before the side of the nose. Use this color to blend in edges of dark shadow for a more polished look. TIP: For competitions with many costume changes, choose warm tones.
Highlight inner half of the lid and up under eyebrow out to the temples. Blend shiny cream, gold (warm) or white, silver (cool) shadow on these key points.
Add pop to the lid by adding a little glitter either in gold (warm) or silver (cool) down the center of the lid and up under the arch of the eyebrow.
Line almost entire lid starting at the outer edge of eye slightly sweeping up towards the crease and thinning as you line across the lid. Use a black cake (wet/dry) or liquid liner. TIP: For Junior dancers, keep liner at outer eye corners only 1/4 of the way in across lower and upper lash line. For beginners using a liquid or wet liner it can help to draw a line with a pencil or shadow color first where you would like your line to go. Dip you’re liner brush into the tube of color and wipe off excess. Brace your right elbow with your left hand to support if you’re shaky. Stroke the brush from the outer corner inward. It helps when applying any liner, to first look straight on into the mirror with your eyes wide open. Apply liner with eyes like this first to see how the finished look will be. Remember people see you with your eyes open not half closed. Always have a supply of Q-tips handy for quick clean ups while liner is still wet. Line beneath lower lashes with brown. Extend out at outer corner towards eye crease. Line black on upper lid. Extend out just beyond eye crease. Do Not meet lines. Open eyes using white pencil in between liners and at inner eye corner.
Now the canvas. Make sure under eyes are clean of eye shadow and moisturized. Apply foundation to forehead, down sides of the face to cheeks, to sides of nose, around the mouth and onto lips, chin, jawbone, then finally blend out what’s ever left onto throat. Blend in with clean fingers gently using downward strokes. The hair on your face grows downward so this method gives you the smoothest, most even coverage.
Next step to the canvas prep is the concealer. For professional make-up application use a small synthetic flat brush or a clean lip brush to apply the concealer over key dark areas. Look for shadows by the eyes next to the nose and under eye darkness. Most concealers contain oil. Use a blemish concealer that is oil-free if prone to breakouts.
Apply concealer over areas that foundation could not cover and blend out well from that area into foundation. TIP: Choose a color slightly lighter than your foundation. About ½ a shade lighter. Concealer is applied after foundation due to the fact that foundation melts the concealer when applied on top taking away some of the coverage.
Set the canvas with loose face powder. If prone to oiliness choose a oil-free loose powder formula. Using a large powder brush tap excess powder into lid then blend powder across foundation in downward strokes to set. Do not apply much powder under the eye area due to the potential for dryness and creasing. TIP: For a super set apply powder to a puff or cotton square and press powder into foundation gently all over to set. With a large clean powder brush buff off excess powder and smooth out the finish.
Brows are the frame to the masterpiece. Some make-up artists like to apply brows after the canvas has been prepped. That means after foundation, concealer, and powder. The reason for it is foundation and powder gets into the brow hairs and need to be groomed out. For the same reason mascara and lashes are applied after too. Preparing the brows after the canvas prep gives your brows maximum definition and shape. There are two choices of brow defining tools. The dry cake color and the pencil liner color. TIP: The dry cake color requires a small angled brush or a pointy brush to apply color. These are good for making brows look thicker and drawing in on bare areas. The pencil liner can shape and define but should be brushed out a bit to look more natural. Brow brushes blend color into the brow hair and kind of shred the liner color making it look like hairs. Some dancers who want their brows to appear thinner, draw a line one shade darker than their brow through the center of the brow. Blend face powder over brow hairs around the line to cover. On stage this creates an illusion the brows are thinner than they really are. IMPORTANT: Use a brow pencil liner not an eye pencil liner. Brow pencils feel harder than eye pencils because of the higher wax content. That extra wax gives the color staying power for a no smudge, no run super hold. If the pencil feels so hard that color isn’t coming out, warm between your fingers or under hot running water for a minute to warm the wax up. TIP: brow color choices should be in the same color range as your hair color. If you are very blonde choose a color one shade darker than your hair color. In general it is a good idea not to choose brow colors with a lot of red or orange in them. Unless you are a very red, red head, under bright stage lights these tones can wash you out. To find out where your brows should begin, arch, and end, go back to brow tips in chapter three.
The eyes are painted and the frame is in place, now comes the time to balance the face. Lips are the key to balancing your facial features. Begin with a freshly sharpened lip pencil. Line lips with lip pencil in a red/brown (warm) or a burgundy/brown (cool) color one shade deeper than the lipstick. Line lips along their outer edge, filling in onto the lip about half way in. TIP: Fill in lips with lip pencil to increase lipstick last. Lip pencils have wax in them, which increases staying power on the lips. When lipstick starts to fade the lip pencil remains underneath providing color. Draw your lip pencil on by looking one step ahead as your draw. Kind of like riding a bike or driving a car. Line with lips closed. Line with lips closed. Corners are easier to see and lips stay in place.
Lipstick gives life to the lips. Colors that look best on stage are orange/red (warm) or rose/brown (cool). For a longer, more durable lipstick last, choose a matte formula. For a more even and defined look apply lipstick with a lip brush, it really does make a difference. TIP: For super staying power apply lipstick and lip pen and lipstick pencil. Blot lips with tissue and with a large powder brush, brush loose powder over tissue. The powder helps the tissue to pull out excess oil and seal color.
The only way to create a fuller show stopper lip, is with a lip highlighter on the center of your lips. This is a glossy, sparkly or shiny highlighter that is applied just at the center of the upper and lower lip to add fullness.
Cheek color is for creating bone structure and adding life or flush to the face. Start with the contouring shade. A brown color with a hint of peach (warm) or pink (cool). This color should be neutral and about three shades darker than your skin color. Use this shade to define your bone structure (see chapter 3 on Face Physics in my book "High Performance Beauty") as well as to shape your cheekbones. Feel with your finger along the underside of your cheekbone. Start by applying contouring color up at the center of your ear and blending along the bone towards the base of your nostrils. Place three fingers pointing up next to the base of your nostrils. As you are blending down along your cheekbone stop three fingers out from your nose. The flushing shade is the color of the natural flush your cheeks get when you’re embarrassed or after a hard workout. This is usually a soft red or rose color. Use the flushing shade with a fluffy small cheek brush (for control). Before applying color, tap off excess on tissue. Apply sparingly to the apples of the cheeks and a little on the sides of the forehead.
Finish with mascara. If you choose to wear false lashes, mascara is applied after lashes have been secured. For a very high-energy performance, when perspiring and extreme athletic movements are involved, mascara alone is the best choice. Perspiration loosens false lashes and they can be knocked off with a lot of athletics. Instead of the extra worry of your lashes not to mention your sight, use 3 coats of mascara to open eyes. Apply black mascara no matter what your hair color is. TIP: For more open eyes always curl lashes first. Curl once toward the inside lashes and then again focusing on the outside lashes. Before you apply mascara, wipe the wand with a tissue to clean off excess mascara that could cause clumping (a big difference when applying so many coats). Do the bottom lashes first keeping the brush on its side and rubbing back and forth. Go to the top lashes and do the same, starting at the base (roots) of the lashes and rubbing side to side as you work out to the end of the lashes. The side to side rub separates lashes and helps to distribute the mascara evenly. A lash comb is helpful to have just in case of clumps and is very useful when using false lashes too.
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